男士迷彩工装裤 男士改良工装裤 实用又时尚

男士改良工装裤 实用又时尚  

MIKE TROIANO NEEDED to get something off his chest
and he went to social media to do it. In a recent Instagram post
the CMO of Waltham
Mass.-based tech pany Actifio announced to the world
with a mix of liberation and mourning: 'Retiring Bigass Suburban Dad Cargo Shorts. Godspeed
old friend. #itssohardtosaygoodbye.' The acpanying photo showed a forlorn and weathered pair of olive cargo shorts. The pockets sagged like old skin
clearly distressed from years of carrying
as Mr. Troiano told me
'anything smaller than a toaster.'
Like many men
myself included
Mr. Troiano
47
responded to the cargo craze of the 1990s
when the military-inspired shorts and pants were introduced as casual wear for civilians. Cut above the knee
they were 'the manliest shorts out there
' Mr. Troiano said. As pants
they were rough
tough and workable for carpenters
adventurers and ordinary men who just needed to carry more stuff.
At some point
however
Mr. Troiano decided the baggy cargo look was no longer appropriate. They were a 'stage-of-life' pant
he said
and he was well beyond his undergraduate days. His reaction isn't entirely unmon-particularly among men who associate the look with sloppy collegiate bros burdened by bloated pockets.
不过，从某个时候开始，特罗亚诺觉得这种宽松的工装风格不再适合了。他说，这种裤子只适合某个阶段，而他早就过了大学生的年纪了。他的反应并不罕见——尤其是把这种风格与口袋塞得鼓鼓的散漫的大学男生联系起来的男性。
But there may be life in those pockets yet. 'If you asked us if cargo pants were stylish just a few seasons back
we would have answered with a resounding
'No
' ' wrote the editors at Esquire on the magazine's site in 2012. In the next sentence
however
they confessed to changing their tune. As well they should: In the past couple of years
the cargo has experienced a plete reputation rehab to bee one of the most stylish and versatile go-to pieces of a man's wardrobe.
This spring you can find debonair cargo pants from labels like Michael Bastian
Todd Snyder
Ovadia & Sons
Balmain and Michael Kors. Even Dockers
which reported that its sales of cargoes have grown in the past year
this spring introduced a trimmer and more stylish pair
called the Alpha Slim-Fit Cargo.
These new styles have evolved greatly from the original '90s cargo
which had a Rambo-in-Passaic look. 'These aren't college-fit cargoes that are baggy and beyond
' said Michael Kors. 'Ours are polished with a cleaner fit. I wear cargoes all the time.'
Mr. Kors's version is slender and fortable with real New York attitude. It has the crisp lines of a chino with a great deal more visual appeal. With four smooth zippered pockets
these cargoes are a slap in the face to the bulkiness of the past
and pickpockets of the future.
American designer Michael Bastian has included cargoes in his collection since his first spring season in 2007. Mr. Bastian's spring cargo pant
pictured at right
is softened up
with slim legs and neater
flatter pockets. They could replace your linen slacks for a languorous soiree on the beach
but they're polished enough for a smart weekend in the city or even a summer Friday at the office. 'I think [the cargo] is the one pant that falls directly in that spot beeen jeans and chinos
' said Mr. Bastian. '[It's] a little more dressed up than a jean and a little more special than an ordinary chino. It covers a lot of ground.'
He said he wears corduroy cargoes for much of the year; in winter
they're heavier and blended with cashmere; in summer
they're lighter weight and off-white. 'Pair [cargoes] with a very tailored blazer
' he advised
'and you're well-dressed enough for anything.' Seeing the designer's signature cargo look-rolled to the ankle and paired with a soft-shouldered blazer
shirt and tie-is enough to banish any frat-boy associations you ever had.
One association designers would do well to hang onto is cargoes' connection to military history
which lends them a cool
rugged appeal. 'Cargo pants' longevity is all about their utilitarianism
' said American designer Todd Snyder
whose resume includes stints at Gap
and Polo Ralph Lauren dating back to 1992
and who shares Mr. Cucinelli's fondness for pairing cargo pants with a sport coat. 'That functionality endures over time.' Mr. Snyder's olive-hued Infantry Cargo pants
shown above
have slim modern lines but also a historical military feel: You can almost see them on Alec Guinness in 'The Bridge on the River Kwai' or in a 'Downton Abbey' war scene.
Adhering even closer to the style's military roots
Rag & Bone designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville collaborated this spring with Crye Precision
manufacturers of modern-day bat apparel
to create their Precision Pants. With inverted pleat pockets on both leg fronts and backs
the trousers are severely stylized. The collaboration
said Mr. Wainwright
telegraphs that their cargoes are 'all about vintage and authentic military clothing
' cutting to the heart of men's appreciation for the look.
But loving cargo pants doesn't necessarily mean that you're one step away from re-enacting the Battle of the Bulge on the weekends. There's something purely aesthetic in the power of the pocket. 'It gives the pants just a little extra interest
rather than just a regular flat-front trouser
' said Bruce Pask
men's fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman.
And so what started as a utilitarian pant and advertisement for masculinity
has morphed into an endlessly interpreted design staple. Will the cargo ever go away? Avowed cargo enthusiast Alex Kasavin certainly doesn't think so. Mr. Kasavin
a co-owner of Brooklyn menswear shop IDOL
sees only continued evolution. A designer's sensibility can e through even when he works within the conventions of cargo pants
Mr. Kasavin said. 'It's still a cargo
but it's also clearly that designer's pant.' At his store
he is selling the Matrix-like 'Memphis' pants from Rick Owens's Drkshdw label. He also admires styles from other designers
such as Balmain.
These days
cargo pants speak across cultures
from hip-hop to hipster
beach front to board room. With all these options
I thought
surely I can coax Suburban Dad Mr. Troiano back into the cargo-pant fold.
First
I asked if he would look at some images of the futuristic cargo pants by Rick Owens. He fell silent. It was the silence of countless of us dads who have passed Brooklyn hipster viability. Next
I asked him to look at Todd Snyder's work. 'That's a nice pant
' he said
'[It's] a classic look.' 'How so?' I asked. 'Like Otis Day's 'Shout' classic
' he said
'everyone loves that song!' Yes
I thought
in their own ways
everyone loves these pants.
But you can't talk about the new generation of high-end
designer-refined cargo pants without mentioning Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli
-0.20% who has done more than his share to impart an air of luxury and casual sophistication to the pants. Something of a fashion fortune teller
Mr. Cucinelli has produced a more dapper cargo pant since 1998. 'There is something youthful and practical about them which keeps a man looking modern and fortable
' said Mr. Cucinelli. 'They've bee part of my uniform.'
THAT'S DEBATABLE | Should I actually carry anything in my cargo pockets?
Sure!
Crazy as it sounds
'utilitarian' fashion can actually be useful
contends the pro-stash camp. 'You can carry everything in your pockets
' said Alex Kasavin
co-owner of Brooklyn store IDOL. American designer Todd Snyder takes a more conservative approach-restricting the actual cargo to slim and essential objects. 'You can carry your phone and passport
' said Mr. Snyder. 'But nothing bulky.'
Not Really
Since one crucial element of the revamped designer cargo is sleeker pockets
keeping them empty or near-empty makes sense. 'You don't want to end up looking like a pack mule
' said Michael Kors. But if you must
he allowed: 'Just a slim credit card or wallet.' Bergdorf Goodman men's fashion director Bruce Pask always keeps his cargo pockets clean
with one exception-those days when he's on location for a photo shoot.
Maybe
Some feel it's a matter of choice. 'That's a very personal question
' said Rag & Bone designer Marcus Wainwright. 'I'm not going to determine that for anybody.'
Lawrence LaRose