为什么巴黎叫浪漫之都 浪漫之都布拉格 沉醉在无关爱情的狂想中

浪漫之都布拉格 沉醉在无关爱情的狂想中  

Clockwise from top left: preparing a drink at Anonymous Bar; a scene in the Zizkov district
where new art galleries have opened in recent years; T-Anker bar; Pour Pour; a dish at Gee Prime Steak
顺时针左上角开始：匿名者酒吧调酒；济之科夫区一景，那里坐落着近年开馆的美术馆；T-安克酒吧；布尔布尔服饰小店；乔治顶级牛排店。


For people who haven't traveled to Prague recently
the Czech capital might seem like a known quantity: a City with a thousand years of architecture
cheap beer and often boring restaurants where the most unusual ingredients are the doughy dumplings. But Prague is developing so quickly that many locals still haven't heard of all the next big things: flashy new art galleries
dynamically developing old neighborhoods
great bars - beyond and including beer - and new restaurants with flavorful offerings from classic steaks and chops to Asian spice. In fact
so many new developments have appeared in Prague that you could spend an entire weekend visiting only those places that have opened in the past couple of years. See Prague Castle
Charles Bridge and all the other classic attractions. But finish out your stay with some of the vibrant newers.

对于近期没有到访布拉格的人来说，这座捷克的都城似乎还是旧日熟悉的风貌： 千年的古建筑，廉价的啤酒，还有把面团饺子当宝贝的千篇一律的餐馆。但布拉格正在如此快速地发展，以至于很多变化对于当地人来说都还是新鲜事：美轮美奂的美术馆，多元化发展的居民区，一流的酒吧---所提供的酒水中虽然包括，但也绝不仅限于啤酒---还有饭菜可口的新式餐馆， 提供的食物从经典牛排、排骨到亚洲香料，应有尽有。事实上，布拉格新变化如此繁多，即便只到访近年开放的地方，可能就要花去你整个周末。布拉格城堡、查理士桥和其他古典名胜自然是必去之处，但旅行结束前也要记得到访几个充满朝气的新去处。
1. Clean Up | 5 p.m.
1. 全面整顿| 5 p.m.
Buildings - and residents - in Old Town have cleaned up nicely of late. In the once-decrepit Palac Dlouha
an Art Deco landmark
the new ground-floor shopping arcade includes Sisters
an airy bistro with gourmet open-faced sandwiches (25 to 49 koruna
or $1.25 to $2.50
at 19.50 korunas to the dollar) that make perfect late-afternoon snacks. A block away
o-year-old Eterno Moderno offers vintage and new fashions
mostly for women
some made out of recycled fabric; across the street
Kuraz stocks clothing and accessories from a variety of young Czech designers
like knee-high stockings printed with insects
revolvers and other unusual patterns. Even gentlemen are getting in on the act: Across Wenceslas Square
the Room has been selling men's wear from artsy Northern European brands like Denmark's Libertine-Libertine and Royal Republiq for the past o years. And just around the corner
Thomas's Barber Shop offers a Scotch
cigar
hand-wrap
haircut and straight-razor shave package that costs 1
600 koruna.

古城里的建筑物，包括居民区，都是新近整顿过的。曾经老旧的装饰艺术地标杜哈宫一楼新建了购物拱廊，其中一家"姐妹"小酒馆在售卖美味的单片三明治（25到49克朗，或者是1.25到2.50美元， 19.50克朗等于1美元），这是午后最完美的小食。一个街区之外，两年前开张的"埃尔泰诺 摩登"（Eterno Moderno）提供古典和最新的潮流服饰，大多是女装，有的产品用可循环面料制成的。在街对面，"库哈兹"（Kuraz）存有各式各样的衣衫和配饰，来自捷克年轻的设计师们，比如印有昆虫图案、左轮手枪或是其他别致图案的及膝长袜。即使是各位绅士，也能找到他们的一席之地：温塞斯拉斯广场另一边的"空间"（Room）正在售卖艺术气质十足的北欧品牌男装，比如丹麦近两年的潮牌的波普印花（Libertine-Libertine）和Royal Republiq。而就在角落的那边，汤姆斯理发店提供苏格兰威士忌、雪茄、包手、理发和刮胡一条龙服务，只要1600克朗。
8. Liberal Arts | 5 p.m.

8.自由艺术

Many interesting new developments in the city's northern districts of Holesovice and Bubenec fly under the radar. Start out at the excellent o-year-old Kavarna Liberal
an old-school coffeehouse with high ceilings
refreshing spirits and free Wi-Fi
where you can ask the friendly locals for tips. Down the street
check to see if the four-month-old Galerie Zari
an unusual exhibition space
is open on weekends
as the schedule has recently changed; the neighboring Galerie Zari should be open on Saturdays later this spring.

霍莱斯索维和布本尼克北部区域许多绕有趣味的新变化，都是不知不觉中发生的。从两年前开张的出色的 "自由卡瓦纳尔"（Kavarna Liberal）说起，这个旧式咖啡屋有着高高的天花板，提神的烈酒和免费无线上网服务，在那里你向友善的当地人询问一些旅行小贴士。沿着街道往下走，查看一下刚四个月前开张的"扎日画馆"（Galerie Zari） 是否在周末开馆，这是一个别致的展览区，不过开馆时间不久前有变动。扎日画馆应是从这个春末开始，每周六开放。
9. Curry Favor | 7 p.m.
9咖喱味
Many of the old favorites in Old Town have changed names
owners and cooks repeatedly. Once called Molly Malone's
the pub on U Obecniho Dvora street is now known as the James Joyce: although the pints of O'Hara's stout make a nice change from Prague's ubiquitous pilsners
the ace card here is the pub's new list of spicy curries. The menu es from the in-house Sexy Curry Company
which offers jalfrezi
Cape Malay and Thai green curries prepared by Sofia Smith
the chef responsible for several of Prague's best-loved restaurants. Dinner for o without wine
about 1
000 koruna.

古城里许多老店都多次改换了店名、店主和菜肴。一个在 欧贝妮·朵夫哈街曾被叫做 "莫利·马龙"（Molly Malone's）的店现在更名叫"詹姆斯·乔伊斯"（James Joyce）：即便大量的欧哈拉黑啤（O'Hara）取代无处不在的比尔森啤酒虽然是一个好的改变，酒吧真正的招牌是一系列的辣味咖喱。菜单来自室内的热辣咖喱公司，他们提供印度羊肉咖喱加尔弗兹（Jalfrezi），科普马来菜肴还有泰国绿咖喱，都由索菲亚·史密斯烹饪，她是布拉格几个最令人喜爱的餐馆的主厨。两人份的晚餐，无酒，大概1000克朗。
10. Tap Race | 9 p.m.
10.布拉格啤酒啤酒

Prague's reputation for great beer is well deserved. The front-runner
Zly Casy
in the south-central Prague district of Nusle
has led the craft beer tap race for years (it now has 48)
but last year the pub got yet another expansion
and a new grill menu. Other neighborhood pubs include the excellent U Vodoucha in Zizkov
serving Bohemian cuisine and beers mostly from regional brewers. And in the very center of Prague
the stylish
year-old T-Anker bar atop the Kotva department store offers Czech
German and Belgian craft brews on a rooftop terrace.

布拉格啤酒啤酒的好名声真是名至实归。位于布拉格中南部的努斯莱区的 "兹尔·卡西"（Zly Casy）是竞争中的领跑者，在手工啤酒这方面已经领先数年（到现在是48年）。但是上一年小酒馆又一次扩建，并且曾加了新的烧烤菜式。包括济之科夫出色的 "U 乌都查"（U Vodoucha ）在内的其它酒馆提供波西米亚菜式和当地酿酒师酿造的啤酒。在布拉格中心，时髦的刚开张一年的 "T- 安克"（T-Anker）是科塔瓦区最好的酒吧，它们在屋顶的露台上提供捷克、德国和比利时的手工酿品。
11. Contemporary Comfort | 10 a.m.
11.暂歇息
Even the formerly run-down 28 Rijna street has blossomed
weling several new shops
including a branch of Harmont & Blaine
an Italian producer of upscale casual wear. The stunner
however
is a new outpost of Julius Meinl
the delicatessen in Vienna that opened its three-story food emporium and restaurant here last winter. Even if you don't feel like buying a whole Mediterranean octopus or one of the 450 kinds of cheese
the renovated Secessionist building is a must-see. Afterward
recover o doors down with a bowl of contemporary fort food: hearty tonkotsu ramen (240 koruna)
filled with pork
seaweed and soft-boiled eggs
at the o-month-old Kitchen Ramen Bar. You can have dumplings some other time.

连原来逐渐衰败的28里那街也开始繁荣起来了，开了一些新的铺子，包括 意大利顶级休闲品牌"小黄狗"(Harmont & Blaine)。然而最妙的第一咖啡品牌"朱丽亚·麦诺 "（Julius Meinl）的新店和上个冬天刚刚开张的一个三层食品商场及餐馆。即便你不想整只地中海章鱼或者是450余种奶酪中的一种，刚翻新的分离主义建筑可是一个必游之地。过后，在两个月前开张的厨房拉面吧（Kitchen Ramen Bar）以一碗现代可口的食物来恢复你的精力：一碗丰盛的豚骨拉面（240克朗）里有猪肉、海带和半熟的鸡蛋。你可以另找时间来品尝捷克饺子。